Spiderman
5.7 ****
Trad 2 Pitch
Their is a saying at Smith Rock: If there is a single group climbing at Smith Rock, they are climbing Five Gallon Buckets. If there is a second group, they are climbing Spiderman.
This is still on my list to lead having cleaned the route in 2003 with Joel leading it. He has done it a few times, but still enjoys the route.
I have seen this route backed up with three groups waiting on the ground, one at the first belay station and one clearing the top. Best advice to give is get their early or very late on Sunday when all of the Portland and Seattle climbers are needing to get home.
The belay station might be my favorite belay in the park. It's a nice rock hammock that gives you a comfy position to kick back and really enjoy the view. On a clear day, you can see the Three Sisters, Mount Washington, Mount Jeffereson, Three Fingered Jack, Broken Top and Mount Adams all resting on the horizon.
This climb has just about everything you could want, exposure, easy and secure movements and the second pitch to really just enjoy. The first pitch is a bit more difficult than the second, but neither should really stretch you. The second pitch starts with having to leave the comfort of the hammock and stretch out to a splitter crack on a verticle face. The crack is really all you need as the holds are plentiful and all positive. The crack leads up about twelve feet to a roof that might be the most fun part of the climb. I personally love roof systems and try to get on them whenever I can. After the roof, its easy climbing to the top where you can either hike down or rappel to the bottom.